Navajo Bridge

The most spectacular 660 feet stretch of early US 89 was the span of the Navajo Bridge across the Colorado River at Marble Canyon near Lees Ferry.

Of all the obstacles to overland transportation in the Southwest, none was more formidable than the Grand Canyon of the Colorado River. Explorers, pioneers, teamsters, engineers and others have sought a way to cross the yawning gorge ever since its tentative explorations by Spanish missionaries in the mid-18th century.

The motivation to improve the Lee's Ferry road in the 1920s came from the Utah State Road Commission [USRC].  After the formation of Bryce Canyon National Monument in 1923, USRC designated the road south from Bryce to Kanab as part of its Seven Percent System, making it available for federal funding. Utah's motivation was apparently to boost tourism in the region by linking the north rim of the Grand Canyon with Bryce and Zion National Park, through what was called the "Park-to-Park Highway".  The route on Arizona's side of the border was still only a rutted county road, but Utah's move prompted the Arizona Highway Department [AHD] for the first time to begin considering its improvement.

The overriding obstacle to development of the route was, as always, the Colorado River, which cut through the road like a giant slash in the desert fabric. Lees Ferry would always constitute the route's weak link, regardless of how well the rest of the road was built and maintained. For the route to attain true highway status, a permanent bridge was needed over the Grand Canyon.

After many years of engineering as well as political back-and-forth construction on Navajo Bridge finally began in June 1927.  The single greatest hurdle of the project - was the transportation of some 3.2 million pounds of materials, supplies and equipment over the 130 miles from the railhead at Flagstaff to the bridge site. With little improvement since the 1910s, the road north of Flagstaff was still no more than a trail in many places.  The most impressive dimension of the Grand Canyon Bridge was its distance above the river level: some 467 feet from deck to water, making it the second highest bridge* in America at the time of completion.

An airplane flew under Navajo Bridge
during the 1929 dedication ceremonies.

After a genuine epic construction process, the bridge opened to traffic in January 1929 and was dedicated in front of thousands of celebratory onlookers in June 1929.  Arizona Governor John C. Phillips said,  "Today marked the dawn of the new epoch in the history of the Southwest," Phillips declared. "Man has achieved another triumph over grim nature. By his creative genius and daring, his engineering skill, he has bridged this barrier with ribs of steel and concrete and brought into closer
touch the people of two great states and has opened an avenue whereby the traffic of the west may view our scenic wonders and our people."

As the only crossing of the Colorado River for some 600 miles, the bridge has had a profound impact on the commerce and transportation of a rugged and remote part of the West. The Navajo Bridge did mark an important milestone of engineering design, logistical planning and construction supervision. It was the first steel deck arch built in Arizona and a nationally prominent example of this uncommon
structural type. What makes this bridge technologically noteworthy is its immense scale, its inspired logistical planning and its breathtaking span over one of the most spectacular bridge sites in America.

This handsomely proportioned structure ranks among the country's most dramatic bridges. Flying high over the Grand Canyon, the Navajo Bridge is Arizona's most aesthetically and functionally successful example of civil engineering.

Most of the above narrative was taken from this source document:
http://lcweb2.loc.gov/master/pnp/habshaer/az/az0200/az0251/data/az0251data.pdf

For a great story about the 1929 context and dedication of the original Navajo Bridge see:
https://www.deseretnews.com/article/273020/BRIDGES-DEDICATION-SIGNALED-NEW-ERA-OF-CONVENIENT-TRAVEL.html

Here's a superb article about the dedication of the second Navajo Bridge:

https://www.deseretnews.com/article/439749/NEW-BRIDGE-LINKS-PAST-PRESENT.html

Below is a 32 second video of some Navajo Bridge scenes.  For many additional scenes of construction of the original Navajo Bridge visit the Library of Congress collection here:

http://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/az0251/

*The 1927 Twin Falls-Jerome bridge over the Snake River is 476 feet above the water, 11 feet higher than the Navajo Bridge-to-water measurement. Some accounts have claimed the Navajo Bridge was the highest in the world at the time of completion.  The Navajo Bridge would have actually been the fourth highest in the world. The Sidi M’Cid suspension bridge in Constantine, Algeria and the 1839-built Charles Albert suspension bridge at Allonzier-la-Caille in the Rhône-Alpes region of France appear to have been higher than either of the American bridges mentioned here.  Many thanks to an astute reader who informed us of our error in calling the Navajo Bridge the "highest in the world."

Kinsley Ranch Resort

One word said it all: Kinsleys--the biggest, most interesting and downright irresistible roadside attraction on US 89 from Mexico to Canada. Over 30 years, Otho Kinsley created a mini-western-theme-park at Arivaca Junction.  Kinsley had a restaurant, bar, dance hall, rodeo arena, service station, air strip, swimming pool, lake, cotton farm and even a jail guarded by African lions.  Tucsonians, tourists and local folks flocked to Kinsleys for food, fun and festivities.

When he wasn't playing with his lions or managing his personal empire, Otho Kinsley was a widely known water witch and well driller.  If his well drilling business was slow, Kinsley prowled ranches far and wide looking for every outlaw horse he could find.  If they don't buck, bite, kick, and sail over 10-foot fences, they're weren't worth a plug nickel in Kinsley's book. Rodeo promoters in Utah, Nevada, New Mexico and Arizona knew Kinsley's wild horses and meaner-than-mean bulls could put on a show.

Unlike tourist attractions along Route 66 and other major American highways, Kinsleys Ranch Resort didn't need advertising or billboards placed miles in advance.  Kinsleys sold itself by word of mouth and whenever word got around about a rodeo people poured in from all over, as the 1957 Arizona Highway aerial photo above shows. Kinsleys began in 1930 and sold in 1961.

Of Kinsley Ranch Resort's many features, the lake was probably the most surprising.  Big enough for power boats, the lake proved very popular for canoeing and even feeding the local geese.  A large well pumped groundwater into a swimming pool, which overflowed into the lake which in turn overflowed to irrigate the Kinsley Ranch Resort cotton fields.

The above 12/30/2017 photo shows Kinsley Ranch Resort lake dry and filled with weeds.

Looking southwest across the former Kinsley Ranch Resort lake toward Kinsley's long famous Cow Palace Restaurant, it's hard to imagine the lake's motor boat hey day.

Now a local legend, the Cow Palace Restaurant is all that's left of the once sprawling Kinsley Ranch Resort.  After a multi-year, merry-go-round of owners, Cow Palace is once again popular today and  appears to be stable and well managed. For many fine photos of Cow Palace taken 12/30/2017, see:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/qQVFwZPTFFtYMiTB3

Here's another view of the now dry Kinsley Ranch Resort lake looking toward the defunct Longhorn Grill.  The two pipes at right carried the lake's overflow into the furrows of the Kinsley ranch Resort cotton farm. For additional photos of the area see: https://photos.app.goo.gl/qQVFwZPTFFtYMiTB3

Perhaps someone thought a location across the road from the popular Cow Palace would be a good place to build another large restaurant.  As of 12/30/2017, the Longhorn Grill was closed and for sale.

For more photos of the Longhorn Grill exterior, see:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/qQVFwZPTFFtYMiTB3

The Google Map screen clip above shows the "lay of the land" today.  May #1 is Old US 89; #2 is the Kinsley Ranch Rodeo arena; #3 is Arivaca Road; #4 is Cow Palace; #5 is the lake (now dry); #6 is Longhorn Grill and #7 is Exit 48 of I-19.  The dance hall was located just south of the rodeo arena (#2).  Kinsleys Ranch Resort did not offer formal overnight accommodations.

Above is the wider aerial view (looking south) that appeared in the March 1957 issue of Arizona Highways magazine.  Kinsleys was located on the very far south edge of Pima County.  In fact, the Santa Cruz/Pima County line is marked by the fence that lies just to the very south edge of the lake in this photo.

Credits & Sources:

All modern "now" photos were recorded on December 30, 2017 by US 89 Team Charter Member John D. Grahame.  Grahame also recorded the photo of Otho Kinsley and the lion as it appears hanging on a wall inside the Cow Palace restaurant. To view all of Grahame's photos visit:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/qQVFwZPTFFtYMiTB3

The aerial photo is credited to "Western Ways" and is from the March 1957 issue of Arizona Highways magazine.

The Kinsley Ranch Rodeo arena photo at the top of this article is located here:

http://www.primghar.com/ranch/rodeo_pict.htm  Photographer and date are unknown.

The photo of the old cars and power boat at Kinsley Ranch Resort lake is from the Tucson Citizen/Arizona Daily Star.  Photographer and date are not listed.  Source:

http://tucson.com/news/local/then-and-now-kinsley-s-ranch-lake-in-arivaca-junction/article_b8bc0de8-842e-52ec-9a76-dd21325ce6f6.html

Information for the narratives below each photo came from a variety of sources, primarily including:

http://www.primghar.com/ranch/index.html

and

http://www.nogalesinternational.com/santa_cruz_valley_sun/news/full-of-intrigue-cow-palace-carries-on/article_3ae4d582-85fe-11e4-b229-e76b61e8011b.html

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Eagle Gate

The Eagle Gate at Temple Square in Salt Lake City is the most unique, widely known, road-related artifact alongside US 89 from Mexico to Canada.

Brigham Young commissioned English immigrant Ralph Ramsay to carve an eagle to top the entry gate to Young's property. The eagle was dedicated February 17, 1859.  The 1875 map clip below sows the Eagle Gate at the intersection of First East and South Temple Streets.

The gate was removed in 1890 to make way for electric street cars.  After a relentless hue and cry from Utah citizenry, the eagle was copper plated and resumed its perch on top of a wider gate. The new gate was designed by one of Brigham Young's sons and dedicated by LDS and Salt Lake City leaders October 5, 1891.

The 1891 version of the Eagle Gate catapulted the iconic landmark into ever wider fame and legend.
The automobile inevitably replaced street cars. Eventually, official US numbered highways came to Salt Lake City.  The route of US 89 traveled State Street north to the Eagle Gate, giving the icon ever wider exposure to untold thousands of travelers. US 89 turned west at the Eagle Gate.

The fortunes of time smiled on the 1891 Eagle Gate for almost 70 years until a truck hit one of the support columns.  The Eagle Gate came down in 1960.  There was no doubt that the Eagle Gate would return.  The third version was designed by a Brigham Young grandson who was also son of the second gate's architect.

Hundreds of people attended the November 1, 1963, dedication of a soaring, monumental rendition of the Eagle Gate.  The design of the landmark has been called one of Salt Lake City's best standing examples of Mid-Century Modern design.

The Eagle Gate continues to soar tall, mighty and free as a tangible connection with LDS and Salt Lake City history.  The gate evokes the formative years of Intermountain West culture as well as the many transportation phases of the Wasatch Front. The Eagle Gate stands as a symbol of the ebb and flow of people across the Intermountain landscape.

There is no other artifact along US 89's route from Mexico to Canada that can compare to the cultural significance of the Eagle Gate.  Likewise, no other structure large or small carries such an incredibly rich history held aloft with such grace, class and style.

Click here for Eagle Gate Credits & Sources.

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Lake Elmira

The ever-endearing, oft retold story of Tucson's whimsical Lake Elmira will forever remain one of US 89's all-time top historical vignettes. We've addressed Lake Elmira in various contexts elsewhere in our US 89 online ecosystem. We think it would be a good idea to give Lake Elmira some space here, too.

Photo © 2017 by John D. Grahame, US 89 Team Charter Member.

The plaque above tells the Lake Elmira Story in a nut shell.  The plaque is bolted to the side of the Stone Avenue underpass where ephemeral Lake Elmira is located.

We prepared a fun little presentation on Lake Elmira using Adobe Spark as our story platform.
Here's the link: https://spark.adobe.com/page/LCToUk60p1MWU/  Be sure and click on the button at the very end of the presentation.  That will take you to a lengthy retelling of the Lake Elmira Story.

Apparently, the completion of an underpass in Tucson is a Real Big Deal.  When the Stone Avenue underpass was dedicated, it drew the largest crowd ever seen (to that date) in downtown Tucson.
Naturally, we did a piece of that dedication.  Roy Drachman tells the story and you can read it here:

https://us89stories.blogspot.com/2017/12/dedication-of-stone-ave-subway-tucson.html

We received a couple of fun comments on Lake Elmira after we posted on the Tucson Facebook history group.  One long-time resident claims city engineers urposely pioneered "evaporative drainage" but funneling all rain runoff into major intersections where the water would be left  standing until it all evaporated.  An Tucson Old Timer who was a kid in the 40's said all Tucson intersections and underpasses were considered swimming pools after a rainstorm.

Nevertheless, there is only ONE Lake Elmira.  Many Thanks to John Grahame for taking the photo of the plaque in late December 2017.  It had been painted over by the city and was barely readable.  It's really nice to see someone has painstakingly cleaned the plaque and brought it back to excellent, readable condition.

The Evergreen Highway

Once upon a time, highways had names, not numbers.  And so it was The Evergreen Highway was one of many such named routes that snaked their way across America and Arizona.  The Evergreen Highway predated US 89 and used a different route to get from Phoenix to Prescott.  Ironically, The Evergreen Highway closely followed what is today's I-17.  The map from which the screen clips are taken is dated 1924.  However, the map doesn't show The White Spar highway which was built in 1923.  Therefore, we'd suspect the map data (if you can call it data) used for this map is circa 1921-22.

Official US signage and numbering came about
for many reasons. One such reason was
that each named highway had its own logo.

Luckily, we were able to find some "core" information about The Evergreen Highway on Pages 176-177 of an April 1920 edition of  "The Rotarian."  Hopefully, this link will get you right to the article:  https://goo.gl/CpBxA6

Here is an excerpt from the Rotarian article: "The policy of The Evergreen Highway Association is not to construct an Evergreen Highway where no highway was before, but to use the different motor roads already built, have them connected with equally good roads so that there will be one continuous chain of open- roadway - communication between North, South, East and West during three hundred and sixty-five days of the year.  No roads already established are to change their names, but all are to be a part of the Evergreen Highway."

Full map of southwest is located here: https://goo.gl/YAANHP

The Evergreen Highway followed the route of what would become US 80 from El Paso to Phoenix.  At that point, The Evergreen Highway turned almost due north to Humboldt before turning west to enter Prescott.  From Prescott, the Evergreen Highway traveled north to Ash Fork and then followed what would become Rt. 66 to Needles and on to Las Vegas.

It would be only a few short years before all of the named highways became official US numbered routes, using a single sign design throughout the Nation. The completion in 1923 of the White Spar highway routed US 89 far to the West from the old Evergreen Highway.  Since the Evergreen Highway was largely a contrived route promoted by outsiders, the name quickly fell into disuse and is largely unknown today.

The Cameron Bridge

The vehicle in the left photo was identified as a 1913 Hudson
by two members of The Antique Automobile Club of America.
The inverted triangle radiator badge is the telltale mark
of an early Hudson.  Hudson began business in 1909 so
the Hudson make would have been a relative newcomer.
Right photo ©  2017 by Peter Corbett
http://www.ontheroadarizona.com/

 The Cameron suspension bridge over The Little Colorado was built long before US 89 was even a gleam in anyone's eye.  At the time of its 1911 construction, the Cameron bridge was the longest suspension bridge west of The Mississippi River.

Photo © 2017 by Peter Corbett
http://www.ontheroadarizona.com/

 Time, a dry climate and private property protection have been kind to the bridge.  Amazingly, the bridge's original 1911 name plate remains intact on the south side of the structure.

Photo © 2017 by Peter Corbett
http://www.ontheroadarizona.com/

The bridge served early US 89 well from the mid 1920's until it was temporarily rendered structurally unsound in 1937. Ironically, it wasn't heavy traffic that damaged the bridge.  It was a flock of heavy sheep. (See story here.) The bridge was repaired and continued in service until 1958 when a newer bridge was constructed alongside the 1911 bridge.  The bridge was sold to an oil company in 1958 by the State of Arizona.

The Cameron suspension bridge is one of only four 

surviving bridges from Arizona's Territorial period.

 According to the historical inventory for this bridge, "Because of their exotic nature and expensive erection costs, suspension bridges were infrequently built in Arizona and the country. The Cameron Bridge is notable as the older of the two vehicular suspension bridges remaining in Arizona, a significant hybrid of suspension and truss engineering. As one of the few bridges remaining from Arizona's territorial period, the Cameron Bridge over the Little Colorado is one of the state's most historically and technologically significant early spans."

For a full engineering description and discussion of the historical context of the bridge see:
https://goo.gl/HgTGez

Source of three screen clips above: https://goo.gl/bKTjn9

Photo © 2017 by Peter Corbett
http://www.ontheroadarizona.com/

Sale of the bridge to private enterprise now appears in hindsight to have helped preserve the bridge. It has been in the oil company's best interest to keep the bridge in good shape.

The view above shows how the Cameron bridge is located adjacent to the long-standing Cameron Trading Post complex alongside The Little Colorado River.

For more information about the Cameron Bridge, visit the the two links below:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cameron_Suspension_Bridge

https://npgallery.nps.gov/NRHP/GetAsset/4a9109b0-65e6-4a86-a81a-9e9972c0dbbb/?branding=NRHP

Here's a drone video of the bridge:

https://youtu.be/tV0fPKHaPBk